Thailand’s north is well developed for tourism, but with its karstic mountain ranges, caves, waterfalls and river plains still represents the dream of the individual „Far East experience“ for many backpackers and Southeast Asia fans. There are enough accommodations, from the simple bamboo hut to the luxury resort with infinity pool and saltwater lake.
And then it’s off into the adventure – on foot, with a rental bike or on a borrowed scooter. Lonely paths through the mountains beckon, whether individually or on an organized trekking tour with a local guide. Waterfalls are always a magnet and some developed caves await discovery with a splendor of stalactites and natural sculptures.
Adventure between Laos, Mekong, Ping river and Myanmar
Chiang Mai, the old capital of the Lan Na Empire on the Ping River, is the pulsating center and hub for the journey through Thailand’s north. Backpackers meet there, digital nomads have set up their quarters and tour operators arrange their trips into the mountains at the border to Myanmar.
In this article you will get some insights, suggestions, experiences and tips for the region in the northwest of Thailand. Your journey to Southeast Asia and a lot of information about your stay in Thailand can be found in the article „Discover Thailand individually“.
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Chiang Mai – Provincial Capital in Thailand’s North
Chiang Mai is the northern provincial capital on the Ping River. For many backpackers the junction on the way to the regions at the border to Myanmar, to the „Golden Triangle“ or last down before the onward journey to Laos or North Vietnam. But also for „digital nomads“ Chiang Mai is a popular meeting point and place to stay. Every day, hundreds of them move into the newly emerging coworking spaces with their travel laptops or hang out in the many cafes planning their projects. Chiang Mai is at the other end of the Northern Railway, so you can hop on the train in Bangkok Hua Lamphong (or Ayutthaya) in the evening, sleep comfortably in a couchette*, and arrive in Chiang Mai the next morning.
Historic royal city of Lan Na kingdom
Chiang Mai is home to some impressive Buddhist temples that glisten white and gold, especially at night when illuminated. With a total of over a hundred temples and monasteries, Chiang Mai is also a religious center of Thailand’s north.
After all, the oldest temple Wat Chiang Man was built by King Mengrai in 1296, which at the time was surrounded by the growing capital. Chiang Mai was the once capital of the kingdom of Lan Na, next to the even older Sukothai a first kingdom of the Thai. While Sukothai lost importance due to the strengthening of another Thai state in Ayutthaya and later merged into it by „marriage“, the northern Lan Na kingdom continued to exist.
The core of the old city of Chiang Mai was laid out almost square and surrounded by a city wall. Parts of the wall are still standing today, but the old city boundary is more clearly defined by a multi-lane ring road, which is partly separated by green areas and partly by water basins with fountains. These are said to be remains of an old moat of the fortifications. On several arterial roads, city gates still stand or have been reconstructed.
Northwest of the center on the „Superhighway“ there is also a national museum, which, however, is rather modest in its exhibition and hardly appropriate to the historical significance of Chiang Mai as Lan Na capital.
At 117 Ratchadamnoen Road, which leaves the historic center to the east and leads to the train station, there is also a Lanna Architecture Center. This can be visited as a museum.
While the more rural typical teak houses of Chiang Mai are falling victim piece by piece to the modernization of the city, you can still find some historic structures in the narrow streets within the city walls of the core area.
A newer attraction in Chiang Mai is the „Art in Paradiese“ – 3D museum (art in paradise, spatially, thus represented in 3 dimensions). This is located about 1km southeast of the old city core on Chan Klan Road, 199/9 Chan Klan Road, Chang Klan, Chiang Mai. Open from 9am – 9pm for 400 THB, it offers 6 levels of Classical Art, Ancient Egyptian, Surreal, Wildlife Zone, Underwater World and Dinosaur Reserve. The 3D displays allow you to step into the paintings and be „in the middle of it“.
Chiang Mai today: backpacker – hotspot of the thai north
In Chiang Mai you will find many local providers of trekking and rafting tours, elephant safaris, jungle camps, etc., as well as bicycle, scooter and motorcycle rentals. This is mainly concentrated in the old town center around Ratchamanka Road. So from this city you can make organized tours to the nearby mountain areas and follow your adventure preferences. However, this is not obligatory. If you go by bus to the region of Pai or for nature hikes to Mae Hong Son in the northwest, you will get more options with the locals there.
The number of hotels and guesthouses is immense and has grown in recent years. Both prices and quality show a considerable range. In the cheap hostel – dorm unfortunately repeated for me, of all places in Chiang Mai, the unpleasant experience with bedbugs, the simple guesthouse, on the other hand, offered me for 1 or 2 euros more privacy and restful quiet. Especially in the vicinity of the guesthouses in the center, Western-style restaurants are widespread, an opportunity to eat pizza instead of Thai food again – for all those who are a bit in trouble nutritionally.
In addition, there are several dedicated restaurant and snack bar start-ups by young Thai with explicitly vegetarian offerings both in the old town and outside the center of Chiang Mai. For example, in the old city center, the „All you eat is love„, where I enjoyed a slice of melon au gratin with tomatoes and soya cheese. Or on the road to the train station two – the Asa vegan kitchen between the city gate and the Ping river opposite the Krungthai Bank and further out the vegan Shewe Cafe about halfway between Ping bridge and train station.
You can enjoy a real healthy drinking – pleasure on the same street. A few steps behind the Aya vegan restaurant about opposite the Thanachart Bank, a woman of Chinese origin sells out of a window for 5 Thai baht per glass a ginger drink that has it all! Sharp, but noticeably beneficial for the stomach and certainly other organs 😉
Accomodation in Chiang Mai
Budget hostels and guest houses in Chiang Mai
Finding a budget – accommodation is quite easy… or again not. The choice is huge and the prices are a bit higher than usual in the Thai province.
A quick overview is provided by hostelworld Chiang Mai*. Here you can also play it safe and book something in advance.
Very well rated in the budget range are the following houses:
„About a Bed Hostel*“ is located about 200m from Chang Puak Market and about 1km from Chang Puak Gate. Shared kitchen and a lounge for meeting other travelers make a communicative center of the house. Simple western breakfast with „toast, butter, jam“ .
Close to life is the Khunluang Hostel* with 650m to the center. So convenient to explore the nightlife in Chiang Mai without a long way back. Garden and terrace invite you to chat, breakfast buffet helps you to start the day. The team organizes tours and tickets and everything you need…
The Green Sleep Hostel*, only 400m from the center, also offers a tour service. In addition, a laundry service is offered for long-term travelers who want to wash through everything again. The breakfast is also well received…
Upscale accommodation in Chiang Mai Hotels
Everything important is within walking distance of the Gusto guesthouse* in Chiang Mai. That’s because it’s located in the inner Old City core, yet offers some space in the garden to sit outside. The rooms are simply but functionally furnished. A breakfast buffet is provided, and if you want to eat in, the restaurant also offers other meals a la carte.
Staying at the Chiang Mai Heritage House* is very much in demand. Room amenities include satellite TV, refrigerator, electric kettle and hairdryer in addition to the obligatory air conditioning. Breakfast is offered a la carte. There are plenty of restaurants, bars and cafes in the vicinity to take a breather on the 700-meter walk to the city center.
Modern living with reminiscence of Thai traditions, that roughly describes the accommodation in Na baanya Chiang Mai Hotel*. If you want to relax, you can sit on a shady terrace in the garden. If you like it active, rental bicycles are part of the offer. Breakfast is included, kettle allows you to make afternoon coffee. The Elephant Spring and other Chiang Mai attractions are within easy reach. Tours can be arranged. Family rooms are available for families.
Top – Accommodations in Chiang Mai – best hotels and resorts
If you’re traveling as a couple and want to enjoy carefree days in Chiang Mai, don’t miss *****Na Nirand Romantic Boutique Resort*. Modern Thai-style rooms with en suite bathrooms and comfortable seating areas allow you to enjoy your stay. Bathrobes and slippers are part of the basic amenities. The in-house restaurant overlooks the Ping River and treats guests to the finest Thai dishes. The night market and other popular Chiang Mai spots are just a 10- to 15-minute walk away.
In the middle of it all and still relaxing in the outdoor – pool, that’s what „*****The Inside House*“ in Chiang Mai, 700m from the (temple) Wat Phra Singh allows. The hotel building itself is often used as a photo backdrop – which is not surprising at all. Terrace and garden allow relaxation after long exploration – tour through the city. Families are welcome here – extra large rooms are available for parents with several children. Water is included as a playful element in the interior design – from the balcony bathtub to the outdoor pools and pool suites, water facilities are integrated into the architecture in a variety of ways.
The *****Empress Premier Chiang Mai* is particularly attractive for fitness enthusiasts, with two outdoor pools and a fitness center. If that’s not enough, you can enjoy a sauna and jacuzi. Bicycles are also available for rent. The distance to the center is about 1.7 km, but especially for the evening hours a free shuttle service is offered. If you stay at least 3 nights, you can enjoy a special free dinner. Also free of charge – the airport transfer. For those who want to do business in Chiang Mai, the hotel offers meeting and conference services.
Very tastefully furnished rooms with wooden furniture are offered by the *****Smile Lanna Hotel*, about 1 km from the old town center. Here, too, you can relax in the pool from the heat of a day in Thailand’s northern metropolis. Families with children are especially welcome in the family suites. The hotel is alcohol-free – there are no alcoholic beverages on site. A fitness room is available for use.
Also family-friendly is *****Phra Singh Village in Chiang Mai*. An outdoor pool and jacuzi and fitness room await your visit. The location on a side street promises peace and quiet, but it’s not far on foot to the city’s many attractions. Afternoon tea and neck massages are included for those who like them. Asian buffet breakfast is provided.
Onward travel from Chiang Mai
From the Chiang Mai train station, the only option is to return to Bangkok*, possibly in stages. Chiang Mai is the northern terminus of the Thai railroad. In front of the station is an old steam locomotive of European origin – a specimen of the Räthische Bahn in Graubünden (Switzerland), which has been in service in Thailand since 1926.
For this, the Arcade Bus Station (1+2, right next to each other) opens up various possibilities. As already mentioned, to the „Golden Triangle*“ high in the northeast at the border triangle with Myanmar and Laos, to Chiang Rai*, or Mae Hong Son* and Pai* in the northwest or even further south. Basically, almost all regions of Thailand north of Bangkok are served by buses from Chiang Mai. Connections and tickets online are also available here via 12go.asia.
Chiang Mai has an airport. Bangkok* can be reached regularly from here, as well as smaller airports in the province such as Mae Hong Son and several other cities* in Thailand. In addition, various destinations throughout Southeast – Asia such as Luang Prabang in Laos, Singapore or Kuala Lumpur can be approached.
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Pai – backpacker meeting point of the north
Pai is the backpacker stronghold in the Thailand north par excellence. No idea how such a place can develop such a hype – with all the good and bad sides that has. Allegedly, the drug channel par excellence from the border area with Myanmar led through Pai and the drug money contributed to the emergence of bars, dives, entertainment establishments of all kinds, etc.. The drug smuggling is long gone, but the myth remained.
If you are looking for „original Thailand“, you are wrong in Pai. If you need again contact to many westerners and the „backpacker scene„, want to relax, party, meditate, enjoy fish spa and other wellness fashions, raft down the Pai river on car tires, go on a trekking tour, elephant camp, climbing or cave spot (e.g. Tham Lot with travel) or organize your onward and outward journey or just want to consume, you are right there. Yoga, cooking classes, Thai Chi and Qui Gong – everything is possible in this place.
Pai can also be reached by minibus from the Arcade 2 bus station in Chiang Mai (see an book online at 12go.asia*), or alternatively by private cab. Many are already moaning about the rapid ride through the mountains with many curves…. „only manageable with barf bag“ was writen in social media.
Locals among strangers
Of course, locals also live in Pai. A temple and a mosque close to each other and many corresponding visitors were clear indications (whereby the Muslims with several stores in the backbacker quarter mix vigorously). Since the popular King Bhumibol had just died in the fall of 2016, the locals organized an evening funeral service on the most important square of the backpacker street, which was close even to many Westerners. But in the evening this scene with nightlife, parties, alcohol consumption and loud music dominates the streetscape of Pai like no other place in the northwest of Thailand.
Pai therefore has a range of accommodations. From very good hotels to simple bamboo huts you will find a wide range for all price ranges. Some of the guesthouses are located directly on the main street of Pai right next to the bus station, many as „ressorts“ on the river. If you don’t like so much civilization at once, there are still secluded quiet accommodations in the nearer and wider surroundings of Pai.
With the scooter to the surroundings of Pai
Also in Pai there are many scooter rentals with masses of scooters in front of the door. So I didn’t hesitate long to have a look at the surroundings. (Simple automatic scooter for from 3$/day)
Because the surrounding area is a beautiful hilly country crossed by rivers. As attractive excursion destinations south of Pai at the road Thai 1095 are propagated a „Canyon“ and the „World War Bridge„. The Pai Canyon is a kind of mini version of the Grand Canyon. Washouts have created narrow ridges from which steep slopes lead down into the depths. It is a jewel of nature, even if it is not that spectacular. Only a short distance away is a historic iron girder bridge, the Word War II Memorial Bridge (8km south of Pai). This is for the Thai a landmark from the 2nd World War, as it was defended against the Japanese invaders.
The main road 1095 from Pai to Chiang Mai now runs on a wider concrete bridge next to it, but at least the old bridge is so important to the Thai that it was not demolished. The somewhat comparable bridge of the „Encounter on the Elbe river“ in 1945 between Soviet and American soldiers near Torgau in East Germany was quickly blown up in the early 1990s, despite all its historical significance.
The white Buddha and the elephant carports
About 3km from Pai to the east, a white Buddha greets us from the mountains. This belongs to Wat Mae Yen, where you can climb up many steps. This is rewarded with a good distant view into the valley of the Pai River.
Elephant riding
Unfortunately, I passed several times on the tour around Pai at „elephant riding stations“, where I missed the pleasure from the start. Whether the tourists (mostly I have seen girls who let themselves be photographed elephant-riding) completely hide how the elephants are kept there? The animals stand, if they are not used, chained in an „elephant-carport„: On bare concrete under a roof from bamboo supports with a chain around a front foot! This is certainly not species-appropriate keeping. But as long as there are tourists who ask for such things, nothing will change.
Accommodation in Pai – Hotels, Hostels and Guesthouses
budget travel in Pai – cheap accommodation
The Backpacker Meeting Place* is just that in Pai – a place where everyone meets. Or at least relatively many do, and they are happy with what they find there. There are dorm beds available as well as private rooms, and all in good quality.
The Suandoi Backpacker Resort* also offers dorm beds or private rooms. Hammocks on the terrace let the chill atmosphere of Pai start right in front of the door. Free yoga is part of the house offer.
At the Nine House in Pai* you can immerse yourself in Thai life. Because this is a typical teak house, as they are common in the region. In the middle of the green. Accommodation is possible in Mixed Dorm, Female Dorm or Private Rooms.
Dorm beds close to the pulse of life you will find in La Mom Hostelo*. There is a drinking water dispenser and free (instant) coffee, as well as hammocks to chill out on the terrace.
Pai accomodation for the more upscale
Cozy rooms with AC and private bathrooms offer you Baan Pai Nai Wieng* just a few meters‘ walk from Pai’s promenade. A good breakfast and bottled water are part of the offer. The good coffee is generally praised.
Right on the banks of the Pai River is the Pai Village Boutique Resort & Farm*. Wooden cottages provide comfortable rooms with kettles and bathrooms. A breakfast buffet provides for your refreshment in the morning. You can get a Thai massage at Mamalon Massage. Local specialties and wines are on offer at Blue Ox Restaurant. The center of Pai is within walking distance.
The Family House Zen Boutique Resort* is located across the Pai River and is accessible to pedestrians via the Bamboo Bridge. These modern stylish building is transformed into a relaxing oasis by its garden and outdoor pool. Continental or American breakfast is available a la carte for an additional charge.
The Kirina Retro House in Pai* welcomes guests with a well-tended garden and outdoor pool about 1.5km outside the town center. A speedy shuttle service is offered. Families with children are welcome, and spacious family rooms are available. The resort is spacious and quiet.
Le Mont Resort* is very rurally located about 5km outside of Pai. Bungalows with balconies are available for guests, all beds have mosquito nets. Every morning a tasty organic breakfast is waiting for the visitors. The owner often takes care of the transfer to the city himself or organizes it if possible, and also permanently takes care of the well-being of his guests.
You can enjoy the relaxing view over the Pai valley from Kuad Khon Thoe Pai Cottage*. It is located about 7km from Pai, close to the Pai Canyon. Breakfast is included, simple Thai dishes are available throughout the day. The outdoor pool invites you to refresh yourself. About 300m away is the Love Strawberry Garden, where freshly picked strawberries and strawberry cakes and drinks are available in season. A shuttle service to Pai is offered several times a day, and the staff can help organize other tours in the region.
The top level accommodations in Pai
The Reverie Siam in Pai* is slightly off the beaten path, only about 1.2 km from the center, and offers all the amenities for solo travelers, couples, small groups, and families. Two outdoor pools promise cooling off. The restaurant serving Thai and Mediterranean cuisine is open all day. A varied breakfast is standard. En suite rooms have private balconies. A family room is available. Although downtown Pai isn’t out of walking distance, the Reverie Siam offers regular shuttles. Laundry and other services can be arranged through the front desk.
The Boutique Pai Island Resort* is close to the action in Pai, at around 900 yards, but far enough away for quiet accommodations. Forests and ponds surround the individual villas. The park-like grounds and wooden houses make you dream of a stay in tropical paradise. The suites each have their own small gardens. A family room is available for families. A sumptuous breakfast brightens the start of the day. Thai dishes and international offerings are available at the restaurant.
Set on a man-made saltwater lake, The Oia Pai Resort* is the place to be. Swimming in the pool or feasting in the restaurant, relaxing on the balcony, or kayaking are popular activities at the resort. Breakfast is brought to the room by boat. A variety of fresh fruit is offered. To get to Pai, you can either take the free rental bike or the shuttle.
Chiang Rai
Since I only experienced Chiang Rai at a break on the drive through, I only want to mention this city. If you are looking for historical cities or love Buddhist temples, the visit for 1 or 2 days is definitely worth it. Because already on the passage I discovered there one of the most impressive temple complexes outside Bangkok. There is a museum about the culture of the hilltribes. Especially long-term travelers who don’t like the party scene in Chiang Mai prefer to spend the cooler season in quiet Chiang Rai.
Chiang Rai can be reached by bus from Chiang Mai. You can search and book connections online here at 12go.asia*. You can also book a „direct“ bus from Pai (they all go to Chiang Mai first) at one of the small travel agencies that take tourists to the Laotian border (Chiang Khong).
Accommodation in Chiang Rai
Hostels for budget travelers in Chiang Rai
For travelers who want to get as far as possible with limited funds, Chiang Rai offers a number of hostels*. Dorm beds are available from about 200 ThB e.g. in the Baan P‘ Maali Hostel*, a bit more expensive from 230 ThB the SoundSleep Hostel*. Not far from the bus station and in about the same price range is Connect Hostel*. The hostels also have private rooms, but these are much more expensive. The distance of these houses to the city center is less than 500m.
Relatively inexpensive is the SuaanTung Coffee and Guesthouse* with double rooms. All rooms have private bathrooms. There is a rich breakfast. The main destinations in the city are within easy reach.
Chiang Rai for more demanding guests
About 500m from the center is Le Patta Hotel Chiang Rai*. Fresh fruit to welcome you and an outdoor pool to cool off in are among the hotel’s standard amenities. Rooms have refrigerators and kettles, plus private shower baths. Fitness centers and rental bicycles are available for active guests. The bus station and night market are just 200m away. Tour organization and laundry services complement the facilities.
The modern NA YA Hotel* also features an outdoor pool. A small fitness center and garden invite you to active recreation. The attractions of the city center can be reached on foot or with rental bicycles. Breakfast is offered as buffet or a la carte breakfast. A family room welcomes guests with children.
The Nak Nakara Hotel* welcomes guests with tea and cookies. Lanna – style rooms with modern bathrooms have mosquito nets over beds, refrigerators and hair dryers. At the hotel, the outdoor pool or massages provide relaxation. The city center is within walking distance, but rental bicycles are also available.
Thailand at its best – the top accommodations in Chiang Rai
No.1 in Chiang Rai is the *****Mora Boutique Hotel*, only about 900m from the city center. There is a restaurant, a large outdoor pool as well as jacuzi and family rooms available. Bicycles can be rented free of charge. A fitness center is part of the offer. Massages and laundry services, too.
*****The Riverie by Katathani* is located on an island in the Kok River. The spacious and well-maintained complex includes an outdoor pool, garden, fitness center, tennis courts and various dining options, including a rooftop restaurant. Family rooms are available for families with children. A children’s club can be used at times. Rooms feature minibars and tea and coffee amenities. The city is within easy reach.
If you prefer accommodation away from the hustle and bustle of the city and would like to find quarters outside in the mountains, surrounded by Buddhist temples and small hill tribe villages, *****Le Meridien Chiang Rai Resort* could be the first choice for you. Nevertheless, you don’t have to do without the usual comfort – the spacious rooms with balconies have bathrooms with tubs and showers and views of the greenery. In the spa you can enjoy massages, oil baths and herbal drinks. Outdoor pool and 24h fitness center are available. A rich breakfast is offered. The counter arranges day trips to the city as well as mountain tours. A free shuttle service to the town, about 3km away, is available.
Small conclusion – Experiences in Thailand’s north
The karstic mountains in Thailand’s north hide a lot of waterfalls and also some caves (Lot). At some point I didn’t feel like seeing another waterfall… But the landscape is altogether charming and varied. Remote villages can often only be found via dirt roads, sometimes with fords through or bamboo bridges over streams.
There are some who also tour there with bicycles, but so far rather a minority. The paths often lead with serpentines in the height and especially the main roads are relatively busy. Where it is flat (river meadows) and many villages are, cycling is fun. You can rent bikes in many places, often the guesthouses offer simple everyday bikes for little money. Mountain bikes or other sports bikes are only available in Chiang Mai and possibly in Pai – where many Westerners are constantly pushing around.
Otherwise, you won’t be able to avoid renting a scooter at some point. Many guesthouses offer a few from their own stock, in the main towns you will often find rental companies with a larger supply. There is left-hand traffic and the driving style of many Thai is chaotic! I was told on the spot that there are no driving licenses and therefore no driving schools in Thailand. So be careful!
Alternatively, for exploring the rural regions, you can book an organized trekking tour (for days or for several days with overnight stays in mountain villages), which includes arrival and departure. Also such tours are either arranged through your guesthouse or organized in larger towns by small local trekking providers.
On the way to sunny Thailand? Don’t forget your sunglasses!
Keen to find more amazing places in northern Thailand?
Visit Sukhothai, the cradle of the Siam Kingdom
Ayutthaya, here the Siam Kingdom continued on the 2.stage
Khmer temple Phimai, the small Angkor Wat of Thailand
Nong Khai – border town at the Mekong river
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